Deep into the soul of Japan

Waku waku is the Japanese way of describing the feeling of being thrilled and excited all at the same time.

My first overwhelming experience of waku waku was high up in the hills above Kyoto at the mysterious Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple, knowing I had found a hidden gem away from the congested hordes of tourists gathered a couple of miles below.

I discovered ancient temples, cosy tea houses and quiet Zen gardens while spending a few hours slowly descending towards the cacophony of camera clicks and selfie sticks at the famous — but frenetic — Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. High up amongst the temple’s spooky statues I enjoyed a lovely feeling of empowerment mixed with a sprinkling of anticipation and a guilty splash of smugness.

Keep reading if you’d like to find out more about my nine-day UNESCO-registered Kumano Kodo pilgrimage walk following ancient trails through remote forested countryside, my hilltop adventure in Kyoto and top tips that will transform your Japanese journey.

Explore travel with a twist, tips for avoiding the crowds and delve deep into the soul of Japan by joining me at me mesmerising markets, secret bars, temple rooftops, stunning Zen gardens and dreamy bohemian districts.