There is a European feel to this fabulous city thanks to the architecture and tree-lined avenues.
My daughter lived in Buenos Aires for six months and spending a couple of weeks with her was hugely enhanced by a little local knowledge. There are many other hidden surprises and armed with these tips, you’ll have a brilliant time here.
1. Recoleta
This is where we stayed and I would highly recommend as a place to base yourself. The famous Recoleta Cemetery is a fascinating visit with rows of tombs and family mausoleums. Don’t miss Eva Perón’s grave! After a visit to the Cemetery, Recoleta is a very peaceful neighbourhood where you can grab brunch at La Panera Rosa and watch the world go by in a shady park nearby. If you visit during a weekend you can wander through the markets full of Argentinian treasures.
2. La Boca
The colourful neighbourhood of La Boca is a must visit. You can enjoy the bustling streets at your leisure as there are plenty of quirky souvenir shops, traditional eateries, multicoloured alleyways and tango dancers. You could also book onto a walking tour to learn more about the history of this iconic area. Just be careful not to go at night and only stick to the main tourist area.
3. Day trip to Tigre
The Tigre delta is an easy train ride from the centre of Buenos Aires. There is a traditional market in Tigre’s Puerto de Frutos (Fruits Port) and they sell everything from leather goods to Dulce de Leche. You can also take a boat tour of the delta to see traditional Argentinian life that is very different from the city of Buenos Aires. My daughter lived near here and we spent a couple of days exploring up and down the river. The boat trip is a must if you love looking at every conceivable type of riverside property.
4. Wine tasting
You simply cannot come to Argentina without drinking a Malbec. The best way to try some of this renowned red and other varieties of Argentinian wine is through a wine tasting evening. A great neighbourhood for this is Palermo as it’s full of bars and restaurants. ‘Pain et Vin’ do an excellent wine and cheese tasting to teach you more about this Argentinian delicacy.
5. Tango show
An intrinsic part of Argentine culture is the hauntingly beautiful tango. While in Buenos Aires one of the best evening entertainments is an official show. There are many different options and you can even enjoy a traditional meal while you watch the show.
6. Sunday San Telmo Markets
If you haven’t already had your fix of markets head to San Telmo on a Sunday. The street is closed and covered with market stalls with an eclectic mix of traditional food, vintage pieces, art work, jewellery, souvenirs and much more. My favourite memory here was seeing my wife and daughter disappear into a Dulce de Leche shop offering endless free samples of numerous flavours whilst I stood outside and bumped into a fellow Gloucester Rugby fan.
7. Bus tour. I’m obsessed with open top bus tours wherever I go in the world and this is a cracker. Hop on and off all over the city but make sure you get off at Casa Rosada (literally the Pink House) and gaze up at the iconic Evita balcony. I suggest you Google the original archive black and white footage of the real Eva Perón before you visit to fully capture the iconic status of where you will be standing. I also suggest you don’t bother watching the Madonna movie as I made that mistake and wasted many hours of my life I’ll never get back.
8. Alfajores. The most delicious snack I have ever eaten anywhere in the world is an alfajor. It is a cross between a shortbread and cookie dough sandwich (made with flour, honey and nuts) with Dulce de Leche caramel sauce in the middle and I can’t understand why you can’t buy them everywhere.
9. Café Tortoni. Step back in time into the oldest coffee shop in Argentina. Established in 1858 this is the place where, over the centuries, all the top politicians, great thinkers, musicians and artists have visited. It takes half an hour to use the loo because you’ll spend all your time gazing at the pictures of these legends on the walls.
10. Day trip to Uruguay. I did this because I simply wanted to add another country to my list. What I didn’t expect was a dreamy day in a Unesco World Cultural Heritage site. It takes an hour on the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento and is worth every penny.