- The famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is worth a visit but it can be hugely crowded so here’s a great tip for making the most of this area. We took a taxi higher up the Arishiyama hillside to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple and spent a couple of dreamy hours exploring this peaceful Buddhist Temple before slowly walking down the quiet hillside path enjoying enchanting gems that not many tourists get to see. The Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple has hundreds of slightly haunting moss covered stone statues each with a different face. They have been created by the students of the temple’s head priest Kocho Nishimura who also happened to be a sculptor. He encouraged his students to bring out the character within the stone and the results are fascinating. It’s a magical temple to start off your day. Slowly make your way down the foothills of Mt Ogura following the Hozu Katsura river enjoying the ancient preserved streets, temples, shrines and a real highlight – an alternative bamboo experience that not many people discover. The Adashino Nenbutsu-ji temple has its own idyllic bamboo grove that you might just have all to yourself. My final top tip is to visit the Okochi Sanso Garden hidden behind the busy bamboo forest at the bottom. If you love a Zen garden, you’ll be mesmerized by this.
- Visit Fushimi Inari Taisha at dusk. If you don’t want to get up at 5 in the morning to avoid the crowds try something a little more relaxing but even more magical. The Fushimi Inari shrine celebrates the Shinto god of rice and is a spectacular place to spend a few hours. We climbed to the top of Mt Inari late afternoon so we could be back down to enjoy the main shrine building at dusk. It’s a fun climb through the myriad of orange Tori gates that weave around the mountain path with fox statues and small shrines along the route. There are cracking views across Kyoto but don’t expect the same at the summit. It’s a bit of an anticlimax however you get a real sense of satisfaction having made it to the top. Once back down we loved the quieter early evening crowds, the even more magical shimmering shrines and the twinkling Japanese lanterns guiding you through this sacred place.
- Visit Nishiki Market at 10 am. I loved my time here in this ancient, mad, bustling corridor of delights with its famous yellow, red and green roof. It has over 100 shops/stalls and restaurants selling beautifully displayed seafood such as squid and seasnails, skewered meat, dried and candied fruit, exotic sweets, local herbs and spices, unusual tofu and locally made ceramics. It’s where the locals go but it does get busy with tourists by lunchtime so go early when the shops are opening up and throw yourself into the madness. I particularly enjoyed the skewered octopus, prawn tempura, spicy nuts and a cold beer in one of the tiny bars you must visit.
- Better than the Golden Pavilion. A short distance away from the crowded World Heritage Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) is a little oasis of calm and charm. We spent a very happy day exploring the area around the Nanzenji Temple with its impressive Sanmon entrance gate which we climbed to the top of. This is one of Japan’s most important Zen temples with spacious grounds, a fascinating history and beautiful rock gardens. However, the highlight for me was the garden connected to the Tenjuan Temple next door. I fell in love with this Zen paradise with its huge rock pond, lush verdant garden and teasing stepping stones, luckily the bamboo rails will save you sharing a dip with the massive Koi Carp. This dreamy hidden oasis tends not to be crowded so you really can spend as long as you want there. If you want to stretch your legs, nearby is the famous Philosopher’s Path, a waterside path dotted with art galleries and cafés. A short bus ride away is the lively Gion District.
Hidden, Unforgettable Gems in Japan – how to get the best out of Kyoto and tips to avoid the crowds
April 2, 2025